从“夷文化”到“行省文化”:食生与明清云南的文化转型
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作者单位:

1.四川大学 国际关系学院,四川 成都 610044;2.成都中医药大学 外语学院, 四川 成都 611137

作者简介:

孟悦,四川大学博士研究生,成都中医药大学讲师,Email:yuemengcd@qq.com。

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中图分类号:

K29;G127

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From culture of the other to culture of a province: Raw meat dishes and the cultural transformation of Yunnan in late imperial China
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Affiliation:

1.School of International Studies, Sichuan University, Chengdu 610044, P. R. China;2.College of Foreign Languages,Chengdu University of Traditional Chinese Medicine, Chengdu 611137, P. R. China

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    摘要:

    食生指的是人们将生肉切割后,佐以蘸料直接食用的饮食方式,这一饮食习惯遍布古今中外的不少国家和地区。在云南,食生是当地百姓从南诏国时期开始延续至今的饮食文化。以往关于云南食生的研究强调其民族文化差异和边地文化发展的滞后性,忽略了食生在明清时期对云南的民族交往、地方知识生产和文化行省化转型的重要作用。在明清时期主流社会饮食文化由“生”转“熟”的背景下,云南的食生习俗不仅得以保存,而且发展成为行省文化的一部分。这一文化转型离不开各族百姓在日常生活中频繁的交往交流,也离不开各民族精英群体书写地方知识的努力。尽管云南在元代正式成为中国的行省,但从唐代到元代,云南食生的习俗不论从饮食实践还是文本书写来看,都与中原饮食文化有别。明代云南的食生随着火把节的流行成为官民共享的饮食文化,各族精英也纷纷在文本中强调食生的云南特性。清代云南的汉族百姓普遍食生,这是云南省与其他省份的不同之处,食生作为文化现象因此有了行政边界。清代汉族百姓创造了食生的新吃法,文化精英则为云南的食生习俗构建了文化传统,阐释了云南作为西南边疆与中原王朝在历史上和文化上的互动关系。因此,随着明清时期大量汉族移民进入云南,食生不仅成为了云南各民族共享、共建的饮食文化,而且在各族文人的笔下实现了从“夷文化”到“行省文化”的转型,作为边疆的云南因此进入了明清中国的文化版图。

    Abstract:

    Raw meat dishes, popular among peoples from different countries and regions throughout history, refer to a mixture of sliced raw meat and sauces. They have been the food culture of Yunnan since the Kingdom of Nanzhao. Past scholarship on raw meat dishes in Yunnan emphasized ethnic cultural differences and the lag in the cultural development of border areas, while the functions of such dishes in promoting interactions among ethnic groups, local knowledge production, and the cultural transformation of Yunnan received little attention. As mainstream culinary preference shifted from raw dishes to cooked ones, raw meat dishes in Yunnan not only was maintained, but they further evolved into a part of provincial culture. Such cultural transformation was the result of both the frequent daily interactions among different ethnic groups, and the joint effort by the elite to construct local knowledge, regardless of their ethnicity. Raw meat dishes was labeled, in textual representations and in practice, as being different from the mainstream food culture from Tang dynasty till Yuan dynasty, despite that Yunnan became a Chinese province in Yuan dynasty. However, the dishes became a shared food culture among Yunnan officials and commoners in Ming dynasty with the popularity of the Torch Festival, and the local elite of different ethnicity all emphasized that it was unique to Yunnan. The fact that the dishes was popular among Han commoners in Yunnan in Qing dynasty distinguished Yunnan from other provinces and thus mapped the borderline of raw meat dish consumption based on administrative unit. Moreover, while Han commoners invented new eating styles of the dishes, cultural elite in Qing dynasty created new cultural traditions for the local custom, which reinterpreted the historic and cultural interactions between Yunnan—the Southwestern borderland—and the Chinese imperial courts. Therefore, with massive Han immigration to Yunnan during the late imperial period, raw meat dishes became a shared and jointly-built food culture among people of different ethnicity, and the consumption of raw meat dishes was transformed from the culture of the other to the culture of a province in texts by the elite, as a way of incorporating the borderland into the cultural map of late imperial China.

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引用本文

孟悦.从“夷文化”到“行省文化”:食生与明清云南的文化转型[J].重庆大学学报社会科学版,2025,31(4):175-184. DOI:10.11835/j. issn.1008-5831. rw.2025.05.001

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  • 在线发布日期: 2025-10-15
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