开物:啤酒与全球史
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北京大学 经济学院,北京 100871

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刘群艺,北京大学经济学院副教授,Email:lqunyi@hotmail.com。作者衷心感谢北京大学历史学系范韦里克与吴靖远教授协助进行古荷兰语的翻译。

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TS262.5;K893;F768.2

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Beer and the making of the global world
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School of Economics, Peking University, Beijing 100871, P.R.China

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    摘要:

    一般认为,啤酒是舶来品,最早在19世纪进入国人的视野,当时走出国门看世界的先驱者们在欧洲接触到了啤酒。这个传统观点受到了更早史料的挑战。早在13世纪时,来到中国的欧洲使者就在他们的行纪中留下了“中国啤酒”的名称,但因为使用的是拉丁语的“啤酒”一词,并没有受到研究者的关注。17世纪,荷兰与英国殖民者将欧洲啤酒带到东亚,但“中国啤酒”的说法没有随着现代啤酒来到我国而消失,当时的荷兰殖民者将“绍兴酒”称为“中国啤酒”。随着全球化与全球史研究的逐步深入,啤酒的广义定义开始得到认可,全球各地的啤酒也开始被发现。像啤酒这样具有“全球性”特征的当地之物并非全球化的产物,而是具有多种起源地的相似物品,也不会因为全球化而消失。“全球性”物品也因为相似而更易被发现,并且成为全球化的媒介,呈现“天覆地载,物数号万”的多样性。

    Abstract:

    The prevailing narrative holds that beer was introduced to China in the nineteenth century, when Chinese travelers first encountered it abroad. This paper challenges that narrative by tracing earlier cross-cultural encounters recorded in thirteenth-century travelogues. Missionaries who visited China during that period described locally brewed beverages made from rice or millet, which they referred to as beer. Although these drinks differed significantly from the barley- or oat-based beers of Europe, the missionaries applied a familiar term to categorize an analogous fermented beverage. Such linguistic and cultural conflations persisted even after European beer began to circulate in East Asia in the seventeenth century, when Dutch colonists described shaoxingjiu as Chinese beer based on perceived similarities according to what would today be considered industrial standards. These historical cases reveal the global character of beer as a non-distilled, cereal-based alcohol that emerged independently in multiple regions. The recognition of local variants through global interactions fostered both mutual understanding and the coexistence of material diversity. Beer, as a medium of global exchange, exemplifies how convergence in form does not necessarily imply uniformity in historical trajectories.

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刘群艺.开物:啤酒与全球史[J].重庆大学学报社会科学版,2025,31(6):150-155. DOI:10.11835/j. issn.1008-5831. rw.2025.11.003

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  • 在线发布日期: 2026-01-20
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